Saturday 31 January 2009

Colonia del Sacremento

I´m no anthropologist but I don´t reckon that Uruguay is as wealthy as Argentina. The ferry terminal in BA was all tinted glass and coffee shops; big, shiny, dual-language signs and computerised check-ins. The terminal here was a metal gangplank and a muddy car park.

Still, Colonia´s pretty pretty. It´s an old Portuguese smuggling town and most of it is Unescoed up, so it´s a bit like wandering round a museum. The peeps in my dorm had thought this was a bad thing, so they´d hired a golf buggy and were whooping from it to startle gringoes. As one does.

Had a chivito last night. It´s the local dish, they seem to have decided that a steak´s not meaty enough, so they add bacon, ham, cheese and a fried egg. Meat-tastic.

My second installment of Buenos Aires was suitably Milhouse-esque. I´ve never stayed in a hostel which stamps its personality on your soul so completely. 18-30s hell. Or a concentration camp. Or Basildon. Or a mixture of the three. Either way, I won a walking tour in a quiz, which was good, but then I had to spend the next day lingering on street corners waiting for un-gormed wideboys as they waddled along with their haircuts flapping, which was bad. Saw Le Boca, which was a faux-vibrant tourist trap, and the stadium, which was a bit like a multi-storey car park, only with less soul. Apparently it´s less depressing when there´s 60 000 people chanting and the pitch isn´t being returfed.

On the plus side I managed to swap my Rough Guide for a Lonely Planet. I really don´t see how Rough Guide are still in business. The book I had was painfully bad. They told you nothing worth knowing and the maps had been drawn in orange crayolas by chickens. It was marginally less useful than guessing.

Right, off to drive a go-kart into a swimming pool, or something equally debauched.

Wednesday 28 January 2009

Ice Ice Baby

So I walked on that icy bad boy - how´s that for a tourist cliche? Pretty cool though. It was all crunchy and blue, like and i got to wear crampons and feel like an explorer. Obviously I ate a bit. I felt all rebellious, until the guide hacked some off and gave it to me in a glass with whiskey.

(It´s the Perito Moreno by the way - one of only three advancing glaciers in the world for you geography types - pretty impressed by the guides, explaining Milankovich cycles in their second language - Check me with my long words, Andy P, I paid attention in some lectures).

Not done a fat lot else in Calafate. Eaten a fair amount of meat (reckon about 2kg), drunk a fair amount of wine and done a whole heap of sleeping. Quite enjoyed myself.

Had two attempts at being outdoorsy and doing hikey stuff. One was thwarted by a pack of stray dogs (so not a fan of animals you can´t eat) the other by barbed wire (Damn the man).

Now heading back to the north to wilt in the ridiculous heat. Enjoy the rain, gringoes.
_________________

Shouts

Dee - It´s been silly fun. See you in Carnivale, lass. Got me a costume. I say costume, it´s really just some whipped cream. I´ll look proper boss.

Silent shouts

Auntie June - one of the few people who could consistently beat me at Scrabble....

...All those people who said "and a funeral" when I said I´d miss four weddings while I was away, not acually that funny, was it?

Saturday 24 January 2009

Homage to Patagonia

If I ever designed a town whilst drunk there´s a fair chance it would end up like El Calafate. It makes no sense. It´s a postmodern hotchpotch of architectural styles - Icelandic log cabin meets eighties-esque retro chic (very un-middle-of-nowhere, darling). It´s surrounded by mountains in the middle of what is essentially a desert. About half the roads haven´t been finished, there´s horses tethered to roundabouts, there´s a quad bike shop on the High Street and there´s more steak bars than clothes shops. It´s very ace.
And to top it off this is the view from the hostel... (I Keu Ken, if you were wondering)

So, last time I wrote I was in Buenos Aires, but (at the risk of rubbing your wintery noses in it) it was well too hot for me. It took me less than 48 hours to be stupidly extravagant and buy flights to Patagonia. Three hours and I´m still in the same country - what´s that about? Last time I got a three hour flight from London I ended up in Africa. That´s a different continent, right?

Highlight from the flight: the air hostess was handing out ham sandwiches. Guy next to me asked if there was a vegetarian option. The hostess looked at him with derision and took the sandwich away.

Right, I´m off to find a steak...

Thursday 22 January 2009

Good Wind?

Or is it "Beautiful Air" either way I'm in Buenos Aires. With JP and Faye? You travel half way around the world and Chelmsford's still there, lurking and ready to pounce.

What you need to know so far...

Least Like a Local thing I've done: used a GPS to work out which bus stop to get off at.

Best shop name: Pizza Bum.

Hours since last item that could be construed as vegetable: 45, without even trying.

Tuesday 20 January 2009

Shout out to my Pepys

See what I've done there - it's Essex, it's literary and it's relevant - that's the way I roll.

Anyway, I've sold my car, cancelled my phone, washed my socks and greased myself up ready for a year-long adventure.

I'd like to say I'm going to find myself, conserve monkeys, write my novel and discover inner zen, but really I'm just going sight seeing so that I can sneer at people taking the same photo as everyone else. Then I'll probably rant a bit on this here blog.

Flight leaves in a couple of hours. I'm off to Buenos Aires. Guess I should start packing....

See you at Christmas.
Px
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Shouts:
Lauren - Happy Birthday. Key of the door and all that.